Destination: Naples...and the ancient city of Pompei.
I arrived at about 2pm in Naples, and didnt have a map or anything for my hostel. Exciting and scary at the same time. First off, Naples is crazy. It seems so disorderly and dirty and kind of dangerous at first. On top of that, there is garbage in the streets everywhere, and graffiti on every single wall...seems like shit could go down here if Im not careful.
Even if youre lost, if you use your noggin you can pretty much get to where you want to be. Some sketchy guys tried to offer me a cab ride...no thanks, dont feel like wasting money or god knows where they would take me. I had a little mini map for the hostel so I knew roughly where I had to go. The bus was far from the train station...and on the way, the map fell out of my pocket. But i remembered where to go. I asked a bus driver and he pointed me in the right direction. had to go buy a bus ticket from a corner store. Then I got on the bus and went towards the hostel. Got out and right in front of me was a huge castle on the the water. And construction everywhere. But where to go from here...
Big tip: if ever lost, just go into a 4-star hotel to the receptionist, and ask for a map. I found an NH hotel, same chain as in Brussels, and asked for help from the desk. She printed me a map, looked it up online, and showed me where to go...so helpful without hesitation. So I finally found the hostel: Bella Capri Naples. Had to buzz up and use 5 cents in the elevator to go up. Got to the top and the hostel was so tiny...but very welcoming. The lady was instantly friendly, didnt mind that I didnt have a reservation ( I lied earlier, didnt use hostelbookers for this one, just a recommendation from the hostel in Rome.) I met some old Argentinian guy in the room, we spoke a bit in spanish, I wander what his story was. He was like 65 and staying in a hostel in Naples. Anyways I went back to the desk. I said I was there to see Pompei, and I only had a few hours till it closed. She told me where to find the bus, and to buy a round trip ticket. I set off, grabbed a sandwich and a coffee and found the invisible bus station. I asked a random guy if the bus came yet, and he said he was waiting for the same bus. As the bus rolled up, he indicated to me from across the way that it was the right one. So nice. Then the bus ride was about 45 minutes. So cool, I could see Capri Island out in the distance, and Mount Vesuvius up ahead. Then, someone I didnt even talk to figured I wanted to see Pompei, and pointed out the right stop...which I wouldve have missed if it wasnt for him. I had about 2.5 hours to see the place before dark and closing.
I went to find the entrance, bought a couple postcards and even the audio guide. It was threatening to rain...I wandered in, it seemed so huge and complex, but amazing. Consider this town was founded by the Romans in 200 BC! It was destroyed in 79 AD by an eruption from MT Vesuvius. What killed most people at first was the several feet of ash that fell on the town, but preserving many of the famous mummified bodies we know Pompei for. Then later that day rivers of lava running at 70 kmh ran through the town destroying much of it, and the next day a massive earthquake took care of the rest. Everyone was killed in 2 days. Ouch. But, I guess it was the ash that actually preserved most of the original painted and mosaic artwork everywhere. Amazing to see this town had drainage systems, clothes washing stations, running water from wells, vineyards, cloisters, chapels, 2 auditoriums for theatre, sportsgrounds for horses, and a huge coliseum.
The art was amazing, mosaics talking about Jason and the Argonauts, Egyptian Gods, Achilles etc. But even more interesting was the sacred erotic art...ancient porn basically. Lesbian stuff, and even some really kinky shit, like some half goat dude railing a normal goat...uhm...wow. Sorry to whoever is reading this and didnt see that coming...actually no Im not sorry :)
The other cool thing was that there were stray dogs running around everywhere. Apparently dogs have always been respected and welcome in the city; theyre actually fed though, and I found out you can adopt a dog from Pompei! When I get a dog, Im gettin a Pompei dog...I shall call him...Pompee...
It started to get dark and raining and the people were dissipating, then magic happened: I spotted a big rainbow over the ruins...so damn magical, its the only way to describe it. I was very humbled by that place. So much history, so much went into building that city...then in an instant, it was destroyed forever. Kinda made me appreciate what I have. You gotta seize the day, you really do.
Found the bus stop again and sure enough, the bus came and took me right back to town. Like 4 euros for a round trip. Awesome. I went up to the hostel and asked where I could find the famous Naples Pizza. I headed over to Gino Sorbillo, the most famous restaurant and the self-described "best pizza in Italy". Sweet. I also found out about all the garbage. Basically, the government doesnt have a proper system to get rid of Naples garbage, so theyve been dumping it in the countryside. Thankfully, the Mafia has a pretty strong hold on things down here. Theyve been blocking the routes for the garbage trucks, so they cant get the garbage out of town. Hence the piles of garbage. Also I learned, the presence of the Mafia keeps petty crimes down, so even though it looks like a shithole, youre pretty safe in the streets. Didnt seem like it at first, but I got used to it.
I found Gino Sorbillo and there was a huge lineup of young people out front. You had to put in your name and they yelled it over the intercom. I realized after when they would yell my name that it would sound funny..."Marco, tre...Chiara, quattro...TAAA-EE-LORRRRE, UNO." My last name in Italian sounds ridiculous. So I ordered a "Nonno Luigi" which was actually more of a panzerotto than a pizza. But still amazing and yes, one of the best Ive ever had. I paired it with a german Paulaner beer, as everyone else was doing. Served in plastic dixie cups, but didnt matter. A musical duo came in, a man with a guitar and a girl with a tambourine...they played for the restaurant and even did an acoustic version of "We dont speak Americano"...so awesome.
I headed back to the hostel, and took some pictures of the garbage on the way back. Such a crazy place, and would be such a contrast to where I was about to go next...
Went to bed and got up way early for my trip to Milan. Old Argentinian dude was semi awake, dont think he slept. I packed up and headed out the door. The desk guy was asleep on the couch as I snuck out at 545am. He popped his head up and in his grogginess said "bye Brendan" in a thick italian accent. So friggin nice here.
So far Ive realized a couple of important things about myself, and I need to write about these things.
I make friends very easily, and I can feel connected to someone I just met quite quickly. Like that night in the hostel in Rome with all those peeps in the room, laughing together. And Corinnas friends. Theres no reason why you cant make great friends quickly.
Ive been speaking in Italian almost exclusively here to get by. And at dinner with Corinna and friends. Considering I barely studied the language, Im pretty proud about my ability to pick it up and communicate. Maybe that sounds conceited but I dont care, I dont say stuff like that often.
Ive also realized Im a good traveller. I can find places, stores, and hostels with very little information, and I have a good sense of direction. Feels like I can survive anywhere. And thats a great feeling.
Im feeling really happy and confident these days. I think its important to check back on the things you think youre good at and to acknowledge them. Its easy to beat yourself up about things you cant do, trust me I know.
Headed on the bus to Milan...some amazing times ahead...concerts, parties...whew, Im tried just thinking about it!
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